Free Pattern: Nightwatch Shawl

When I learned to knit, my very first lesson was making a diagonally knitted square. I learned to increase, decrease and the knit stitch, all while making a relatively useful project, a wash cloth or dishcloth. After that, I did a multitude of scarves and hats before I struck out to learn more techniques. But I kept coming back to the square. 

There are so many simple designs that are made from squares or triangles (half a square) and the pattern is so easy that it is perfect for beginners. So I have started  designing patterns based on that simple diagonal square, just to see how many projects I can make.

Pattern Stitch
The pattern stitch I learned, and still use, is very simple (below):

• Cast on four stitches (I use the long tail cast on for this).
  
• Increase row: Knit 2, yarn over, knit to end
  
• Continue in this pattern until you have the sides of the square or triangle as long as you want for your project, then start your decrease row:
  
• Decrease row: Knit 1, knit 2 together, yarn over, knit 2 together, knit to end. 
  
• Repeat until 4 stitches are left on the needle, then bind off.

Close up view of Nightwatch Shawl (left) and full view of shawl (right).

Nightwatch Shawl

This knitted shawl is made from 2 skeins of 'I Love This Yarn' Ombre Nightwatch, 251 yards (230 meters) per skein for a total of 502 yards (460 meters). Any size yarn could be used, but bulkier yarns with bigger needles will work up much faster, which I would recommend for a beginning knitter. Or you could use two light weight yarns. I used size 17 needles, but a smaller size would work. I knitted the increase row until the sides were about 52" when laid flat (be careful not to stretch the yarn), then I bound off the edge loosely. (That means no decrease rows; you are stopping with half a square-i.e. a triangle). I am tall, though, so you would want to adjust your number of rows to fit your need.

I wanted this shawl to be a light and airy, easy care summer accessory. The large needle made a very open stitch and was very quick to knit. I added a simple 5 inch fringe (10 inch strands doubled with a larks head knot), but you could also leave the edge with the knitted finish. I would caution you not to choose a yarn that has a lot of give, because with a stretchy yarn, this shawl would be dragging on the ground. If I make it again, I will probably use a cotton yarn or something similar that has very little stretch to it and is summery (cotton is just summery to me). As it is, the shawl is long enough that I can turn back a collar at the neck and still have a fairly long shawl. 

I like to full and block my knitted pieces by rinsing them gently in warm water (this is entirely dependent on the yarn you are using--read the washing instructions on the skein), then rolling them up in a heavy towel and squeezing out the excess water. I then lay them out flat (or folded in half length wise in the case of a large shawl) on a moisture proof, fade proof surface and pin them down and let them dry. 

My blocking board is a large piece of 1.5 inch compressed styrofoam left over from insulating our house. I covered it with a clean, white and very large towel and use quilting pins to block my projects. When I'm not using it, it stands behind the door of my craft room/office. Works great!

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I make my fringe by wrapping yarn around an old hardback book and then cutting on one side. The open side of the book, opposite the spine, is easier to cut on a hardback book because the pages are usually recessed from the edge just a little.